Tlayudas Done Right... San Jacinto Amalpas, Oaxaca
The tlayuda sometimes spelled clayuda, is a handmade
traditional Mexican dish consisting of a large, thin, crunchy, partially fried
or toasted tortilla covered with a spread of refried beans, asiento, lettuce or
cabbage, avocado, meat, Oaxacan cheese and salsa.
But the above description from Wikipedia is like saying Willie Mays was just a baseball player,
Josh Grobin just a singer or Michael Phelps just a swimmer. They are all technically true, but woefully miss the mark in
explaining true greatness.
You see, when it’s done right, the traditional tlayuda is
more than just a Mexican dish, it is one of the anchors of the gastronomical
galaxy known as Oaxaca.
The tlayuda is an all star baseball player, an award
winning singer and a multiple Olympic gold medal winner all in one. And if you ever find yourself in
Oaxaca, you need to get a taxi right away and head over to Tlayudas San
Jacinto.
When you arrive the outside is going to worry you if you
don’t typically eat off the beaten track in Mexico. It’s just an opening in a residential area with blue steel
doors and a banner that tells you the place has a good, clean atmosphere. Yet, as soon as you walk in, you
realize you are somewhere special, like an enchanted garden. Lots of greenery, bamboo like plants,
umbrellas and a rich almost tropical feel. It is as if you could sit there all day, and you can because
once you walk in, you are treated like family. There’s even a playground if you bring the kids.
The menu is simple and hangs from the ceiling.
Tlayudas. Pick your
topping. Beef, pork, ribs, skirt
steak or eggs from the grill. Add
your drink, soda or beer, and you’re all set.
Once we ordered, it took about 15 minutes for our food to
arrive.
And here’s what you get. A gigantic fired roasted quesadilla like creation stuffed
with cheese, black beans and finished with your desired topping. I had the eggs, which came perfectly
fried hard. Now, I’ve had lots of
tlayudas around Oaxaca, but this one was different, because the tortilla was
cooked to perfection.
When I picked it up, there was no sag at all. This wonderful creation was crispy
through and through, the result of just the right amount of time over the
coals. The beans were not over the
top and there was just the right amount of that great Oaxaca string like cheese, quesillo.
Once I added avocado, chepiche, a Oaxacan herb, and a
some roasted chile de aqua, it was off the charts wonderful.
Now, I’ve got to tell you, this place can be hard to
find. It’s in the Colonia San
Jacinto but it is not along the row of the other locations that sell
tlayudas. Look for the San Jacinto
signs that call you to this little slice of heaven in Oaxaca and prepare
yourself to fall in love with this all star of Oaxacan cuisine, maybe for the
first time, or all over again.
Tlayudas San Jacinto
Colonia San Jacinto Amilpas
Calle Benito Juarez #11
Tlayuda and a soda... $6.00 con una cerveza… $8.00
Labels: clayudas, Dave Miller, food, gastronomy, mexico, oaxaca, Quesillo, San Jacinto, Tlayudas, Tourism |
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