¡Mezcal! Entendamos la bebida más de onda en los EE.UU.

Yo miraba mientras el joven, quién quería ser un mezcalero maestro, esperaba nerviosamente.  Aquél joven vino a In Situ... la meca de mezcalerías... en dónde Ulises Torrentera, el Don de mezcal en Oaxaca, dedica cada día a su búsqueda para los mezcales más perfectos de Oaxaca. El joven le ofrecía una prueba a aquél romántico moderno, quién le parece mucho a Diego Rivera.  Mientras probaba, el Don hacía unas preguntas antes de pronunciar un veredicto. Para muchos americanos, pensar en mezcal es pensar en imágenes del actor Clint Eastwood en una de sus películas de vaquero con un cigarrillo en una mano y una botella de bebida con gusano en la otra.  Sin embargo, como lo explica Ulises, ya no es así: el mezcal ya está ganando lugar entre los grandes licores del mundo, saliendo de las sombra de su hermano mayor, el tequila. El mezcal, un licor embriagador que puede transportarte a un lugar de memorias increíbles, se está convirtiendo rápidamente en uno de los licores de onda en ciudades estadounidenses como Seattle y Chicago.  Parte de ésta nueva popularidad es la gran variedad de mezcales que se producen en México, principalmente en el estado de Oaxaca. Ulises, David y su Amigo Paco Garcia Recientemente, visité con Ulises con el propósito de aprender cómo piensa él y de aprender de ésta bebida fabulosa.  Como dice mi amigo Paco Garcia, “Oaxaca es mezcal y mezcal es Oaxaca”, o, en otras palabras, “David, no se puede comprender Oaxaca a menos que se comprenda el mezcal!” En una entrevista que cubría desde terroir [es integralmente importante] hasta su deseo como niño de ser escritor, empezamos con la historia vieja del mezcal. Mezcal . . . un repaso El mezcal como lo reconocemos hoy tiene ya más de 400 años de edad, a pesar de la insistencia de algunas personas que es un éxito nuevo  Descubierto y destilado por la gente indígena de México, el mezcal tiene una historia compleja. Por cierto tiempo, el mezcal sufría una persecución más común en los Estados Unidos.  Acusado de ser responsable para todo tipo de maldad, su peor pecado fue que era la bebida preferida de las clases bajas para sus fiestas y sus celebraciones.  La clase alta de México (la gran mayoría de ella siendo europea) lo echaba la culpa por el crimen, las enfermedades de niños, la violencia y la corrupción.  Naturalmente, esto contribuyó a su prohibición. Llegamos a la primera mitad del siglo veinte y la industrialización de la producción de la tequila.  México, con su cultura de machismo, aceptó a la tequila y tiró a un lado el mezcal, siendo que el mezcal tenía la reputación de ser algo bajo y primitivo. Pasando a la segunda mitad del siglo veinte, vemos que la versión moderna del mezcal tomaba forma en Matatlán, la Cuña del Mezcal, una región al este de la Ciudad de Oaxaca. El Maguey y el Proceso Ulises, el Don de Mezcal en Oaxaca Cocinado en ollas de barro y cobre en palenques locales, el mezcal era preparado por mezcaleros locales utilizando los métodos de destilar que ocupaban sus antepasados hace muchos s iglos cuando la gente indígena de México descubrió que se podía hacer un alcohol fuerte por destilar la pulpa y los jugos del maguey y el agave. Después de cosechar el maguey, se lo concina en un horno volcánico invertido.  Se lo muele con un muela antes de echarlo en tinas de madera para fermentar.  Dependiendo del mezcalero, se lo puedo destilar varias veces y ponerlo en botellas para vender. Como dice Ulises, este proceso no se ha cambiado mucho a través de los siglos.  El cambio más grande será las ollas de cobre, aunque algunos palenques siguen usando las ollas de barro. Hay tres tipos de magueys que se usan en la mayoría de los mezcales que vienen de Oaxaca.  El más popular es el espadín.  Alto con ramas que llegan a ser hasta dos metros, el espadín se madura en siete años.  Aunque lleva años en madurarse, lo bueno es que se reproduzca fácilmente.  Esta facilidad de reproducir explica la presencia de estancias en Oaxaca donde se puede encontrar miles de este tipo de maguey. Magueys Espadin, Madre Cuishe y Tobalá Los otros dos tipos principales de maguey son el madre cuishe y el tobala.  Estos magueyes son especial a causa de los sabores complejos que dan al mezcal.  Sin embargo, el madre cuishe y el tobala no son tan numerosas como el espadín porque toman quince años para madurarse.  A pesar de las esfuerzas de mezcaleros dedicados, como la familia Garcia de Wahaka Mezcal, no se ha logrado mucho éxito en reproducir ni uno ni otro de estos magueyes. Ulises dice que esto es un crises.  Si los intentos de proteger los magueyes silvestres no tienen éxito, no habrá cantidades suficientes de las plantas silvestres para satisfacer la demanda creado por la gente que quiere las matices que dan al mezcal.  Hay que preguntarse qué haría la industria si de repente se encontrara una escasez.  No hay muchos mezcaleros que quieren pensar en eso.  En lugar de eso, escogen esperar que la naturaleza resolverá los problemas que se formen. Mientras confrontan este problema, algunos están decidiendo a mezclar varios tipos de magueyes como parte de su estrategia por sobrevivir.  Estas esfuerzas en mezclar los sabores nos dan algo que la maestra mezcalera Cecilia Rios, La Niña de Mezcal, llaman “la belleza del mezcal”. La tequila se trata de la uniformidad, pero cada tipo de mezcal se diferente y nos provee con su propia aventura.  Esto se atribuye en una parte a la gran variedad de los magueyes que se usan en la producción del mezcal; de otra parte, se atribuye al local donde se crece el maguey.  Esto se llama “el terroir”. El Terroir  Según lo que dicen muchos mezcaleros, el terroir es el factor que más influye el sabor del maguey y, por extensión, el sabor del mezcal.  El medio ambiente, la tierra, la altitud y el clima se combinan en hacer un papel crítico. Un aficionado refinado puede distinguir las diferencias sutiles en las minerales, la flora local y el clima de la región donde se encuentre el maguey. Por eso, mucho screen que el palenque y el mezcalero deben de ubicarse muy cerca de su maguey.  Es esta proximidad y familiaridad que hace el retrato completo. Por unirse con la tierra, conocer sus plantas y el ambiente local y por usar los procesos antiguos, el mezcalero completa el círculo con su antepasados. Como dice Ulises, esto es indispensable. Yo le pregunté a Ulises si piensa que el mezcal llegará a ser más popular en los Estados Unidos.  Me dijo que esperaba que no, porque él quiere que la gente venga a Oaxaca para probar los grandes mezcales. ¿Por qué? Porque Oaxaca es mezcal y mezcal es Oaxaca! (c) Copyright Dave Miller 2013 - 2016. All Rights Reserved. Translated by Brian Cumings

Mezcal! Understanding the new hippest drink in America…

I watched as the young man, hoping to one day be called a maestro mezcalero waited nervously.  He’d come to In Situ, the mecca of mezcalerias where Ulises Torrentera, the Godfather of Mezcal in Oaxaca, holds court daily in his quest to show off the finest mezcals in Oaxaca. Ulises Torrentera at In Situ, Oaxaca And here he was offering a taste to this modern day romantic and Diego Rivera lookalike.  As Ulises tasted, he asked questions before offering his verdict. For many Americans, the idea of mezcal conjures up images of Clint Eastwood in one of those old spaghetti westerns with a cigarette in one hand and a worm-laden bottle in the other.  But as Ulises explains, those days are long gone as mezcal is starting to take its rightful place among the worlds great spirits as it emerges from the shadows of its cousin, the better known tequila. Mezcal, an intoxicating drink that can immediately transport you to a place of incredible memories is quickly becoming a spirit trend-setter in United States cities like Seattle and Chicago.  Part of the reason for this is the wide variety of mezcal that is being distilled across Mexico, but primarily in the southern state of Oaxaca. I recently sat down with Ulises to learn what makes him tick and see what I could learn about this great drink, for as my friend Paco Garcia says “Oaxaca is mezcal and mezcal is Oaxaca”, or as he explained it, “David, you cannot understand Oaxaca until you understand mezcal!” In a wide ranging interview that went from terroir [it’s vitally important] to his desire as a young child to be a writer we started with the early history of mezcal. Mezcal… a look back Mezcal as we know it has existed for over 400 years despite the insistence of some that it has become an overnight success.  Discovered and distilled originally by the indigenous people of Mexico, mezcal has lived a checkered past. L to R: Ulises Torrentera, Dave Miller and Paco Garcia For a while mezcal suffered the type of persecution more familiar to spirits in the neighbor to the north. Accused of being responsible for all types of evil, perhaps its biggest sin was that it was the favored elixir of the poorer classes for their fiestas and celebrations.  The Spanish ruling elite of Mexico laid the blame for everything from childhood ills to local crime, violence and corruption at the feet of mezcal, which naturally led to its prohibition. Fast forward to the mid 1940’s and the industrialization of tequila. Mexico, steeped in its macho culture embraced tequila, tossing aside the poorer cousin mezcal that was often seen as an unrefined drink for the lower classes. It wasn’t until the mid 1950’s that we started to see the modern version of mezcal begin to take shape in an area east of Oaxaca City, known as Matatlán, the Cradle of Mezcal. Brewed in clay and copper pots at local palenques, local mezcaleros the same methods handed down by their forefathers hundreds of years ago when  used then, and still do today, the same methods of distillation used hundreds of years ago by their ancestors. The maguey and process Brewed in clay and copper pots at local palenques, local mezcaleros use the same methods handed down by their forefathers hundreds of years ago when the indigenous people of Mexico discovered that if you distilled the pulp and juices of the maquey and agave cactus you could make a powerful elixir. Once that maguey is harvested it is cooked in essentially an inverted volcanic oven.  It is then treaded out under a millstone before going into wooden vats to ferment.  Next, depending on the mezcalaro, it is distilled a number of times and the bottled for delivery. As Ulises said, this process has remained mostly unchanged over hundreds of years.  Perhaps the biggest change being the addition of the copper still, although some palenques still use the classic clay pots. Magueys Espadin, Tobala and Madre Cuishe There are three magueys used in the majority of mezcal from Oaxaca, the most popular being the Espadin.  This is what most Americans think of when they think mezcal.  Tall with spindles sometimes reaching over 6 feet, the Espadin takes over 7 years to mature. While the maturation process takes years, the good thing about the Espadin is that it is easily reproduced.  That is why you can see farms with literally hundreds of this type of maguey planted around the countryside in Oaxaca. The other two principle magueys used are the Madre Cuishe and the Tobala. These magueys are prized for the complex flavors they bring to mezcal. But there is a problem brewing.  Both the Madre Cuishe and the Tobala are less plentiful than the Espadin and can take up to 15 years to reach maturity, double the Espadin.  Despite efforts by some dedicated mezcalaros, notably the Garcia family of Wahaka Mezcal, there has not been much success in reproducing or replanting either of these magueys. Ulises calls this a looming crises.  If the efforts at reforestation of these magueys are not successful, there may not be enough wild product to satisfy the growing demand of people desiring the subtle nuances they bring to mezcal.  What will the industry do he asks if we suddenly find ourselves facing a shortage?  It is a question few really want to ponder, choosing instead to hope that somehow nature will solve whatever problems come. Yet even as the mezcaleros face this issue, some are choosing to mix and blend other types of magueys as part of their strategy to survive.  These efforts at mixing flavors give us what Maestra Mezcalera Cecilia Rios, La Nina de Mezcal, calls the beauty of mezcal. Unlike tequila that strives for a certain consistency, every type of mezcal is different and takes you on another adventure.  And while part of that difference is due to the wide variety of magueys used for mezcal, another large factor is where the maguey is grown, sometimes known as terroir. Terroir To many, this is the central most important thing that influences the taste of the maguey and by extension, mezcal.  The environment, the soil, the altitude and the weather all combine to play a crucial role in the final product. A finely tuned palette can taste the subtle differences in minerals, local flora and climate of the area where the maguey is found. It’s one reason many believe that both the palenque and the mezcalero must be close to their maguey.  It is this proximity and familiarity that connects all of the dots.  By being at one with the land, knowing his plants, his local environment and using the same processes passed down through generations, the mezcalero closes the circle with their ancestors. This, in Ulises opinion, is indispensible. I asked Ulises if he thought mezcal would ever break out of its niche in the United States.  He said he hoped not because he wanted people to come to Oaxaca to try the great mezcals. Why? Because Oaxaca is mezcal and mezcal is Oaxaca! Measuring up I watched as the young man, struggling to keep his composure, answered all of Ulises’ questions, knowing his future was on the line.  And then came the moment of truth.  The taste.  Ulises swirled it around in the glass and smelled it.  He took one, two, maybe three sips before finally giving his verdict. Yes, he’d be glad to put a bottle of this mans mezcal on the wall of the greatest mezcals in Oaxaca and thus was born another in the long line of maestro mezcaleros. © All rights reserved by Dave Miller [A special thanks to Ulises Torrentera, Cecilia Rios, Paco, Beto and of course Ed Draves of Premier Wines for help on this article]

Tlayudas Done Right... San Jacinto Amalpas, Oaxaca

The tlayuda sometimes spelled clayuda, is a handmade traditional Mexican dish consisting of a large, thin, crunchy, partially fried or toasted tortilla covered with a spread of refried beans, asiento, lettuce or cabbage, avocado, meat, Oaxacan cheese and salsa. But the above description from Wikipedia is like saying Willie Mays was just a baseball player, Josh Grobin just a singer or Michael Phelps just a swimmer.  They are all technically true, but woefully miss the mark in explaining true greatness. You see, when it’s done right, the traditional tlayuda is more than just a Mexican dish, it is one of the anchors of the gastronomical galaxy known as Oaxaca. The tlayuda is an all star baseball player, an award winning singer and a multiple Olympic gold medal winner all in one.  And if you ever find yourself in Oaxaca, you need to get a taxi right away and head over to Tlayudas San Jacinto. When you arrive the outside is going to worry you if you don’t typically eat off the beaten track in Mexico.  It’s just an opening in a residential area with blue steel doors and a banner that tells you the place has a good, clean atmosphere.  Yet, as soon as you walk in, you realize you are somewhere special, like an enchanted garden.  Lots of greenery, bamboo like plants, umbrellas and a rich almost tropical feel.  It is as if you could sit there all day, and you can because once you walk in, you are treated like family.  There’s even a playground if you bring the kids. The menu is simple and hangs from the ceiling.  Tlayudas.  Pick your topping.  Beef, pork, ribs, skirt steak or eggs from the grill.  Add your drink, soda or beer, and you’re all set. Once we ordered, it took about 15 minutes for our food to arrive. And here’s what you get.  A gigantic fired roasted quesadilla like creation stuffed with cheese, black beans and finished with your desired topping.  I had the eggs, which came perfectly fried hard.  Now, I’ve had lots of tlayudas around Oaxaca, but this one was different, because the tortilla was cooked to perfection. When I picked it up, there was no sag at all.  This wonderful creation was crispy through and through, the result of just the right amount of time over the coals.  The beans were not over the top and there was just the right amount of that great Oaxaca string like cheese, quesillo. Once I added avocado, chepiche, a Oaxacan herb, and a some roasted chile de aqua, it was off the charts wonderful. Now, I’ve got to tell you, this place can be hard to find.  It’s in the Colonia San Jacinto but it is not along the row of the other locations that sell tlayudas.  Look for the San Jacinto signs that call you to this little slice of heaven in Oaxaca and prepare yourself to fall in love with this all star of Oaxacan cuisine, maybe for the first time, or all over again. Tlayudas San Jacinto Colonia San Jacinto Amilpas Calle Benito Juarez #11 Tlayuda and a soda... $6.00 con una cerveza… $8.00

Engaging Mexico... tourism outside the box...

I was reading a Rick Steves, pictured here, article earlier today. For those of who don’t know, Rick Steves is the guru of European travel.  If you want good travel advice about Europe, Steves is your go to guy. Here’s one of his points about having a great experience in Europe... “A fundamental aim in my travels is to have meaningful contact with local people.  When an opportunity presents itself, I jump on it. Driving by a random cheese festival in Sicily? Stop the car, get out, and eat cheese. Hiking through England's Lakes District and popping into a pub for a drink?” What great advice... When you are visiting another country, don’t stick to the tried and true, venture out, explore and experiment! I wish people who visit Mexico from the United States had more of that spirit. One of the great pleasures in Mexico is eating in the markets, on the streets, and some of the off the beaten tracks hole in the wall restaurants.  Sadly, far too often people miss out on a chance to experience some of the heart of Mexico out of fear, timidity, or worry about what might happen. Last year I had a friend join me on mission in Oaxaca for a week of ministry.  Before we got started I led a small group over to the market for lunch where I ordered meat by the kilo for all of us to eat.   Now if you’ve never been to a food market in Oaxaca, it is an experience not to be missed.  The sights, sounds and smells are at once incredible and sometimes overwhelming.  Sadly, most people who are visiting Oaxaca will never experience this. My friend was one of those people until I took her into the market, made her sit in the smoke filled room where they were grilling tons of fresh meat, eat sauteed grasshoppers and have one the most memorable meals of her life. I made her break every rule she had ever heard about eating in another country in general and Mexico in particular.  And yet, there she was, eating and laughing with us as we enjoyed a wonderful lunch together surrounded not by the typical tourists you’d expect to find in Oaxaca.  The folks surrounding us were locals, amazed that a small group of gringos would venture into their local market not just for some cool photos, but a great meal as well. Next time you travel, do what Rick Steves and I do when we travel, get off the beaten track, follow the locals, and leave the cookie cutter tourism behind.  Not only will you get to know the country you are visiting much better, you’ll have way better stories to tell when you arrive home. Next up... the Guelaguetza!