Tlayudas Done Right... San Jacinto Amalpas, Oaxaca

The tlayuda sometimes spelled clayuda, is a handmade traditional Mexican dish consisting of a large, thin, crunchy, partially fried or toasted tortilla covered with a spread of refried beans, asiento, lettuce or cabbage, avocado, meat, Oaxacan cheese and salsa. But the above description from Wikipedia is like saying Willie Mays was just a baseball player, Josh Grobin just a singer or Michael Phelps just a swimmer.  They are all technically true, but woefully miss the mark in explaining true greatness. You see, when it’s done right, the traditional tlayuda is more than just a Mexican dish, it is one of the anchors of the gastronomical galaxy known as Oaxaca. The tlayuda is an all star baseball player, an award winning singer and a multiple Olympic gold medal winner all in one.  And if you ever find yourself in Oaxaca, you need to get a taxi right away and head over to Tlayudas San Jacinto. When you arrive the outside is going to worry you if you don’t typically eat off the beaten track in Mexico.  It’s just an opening in a residential area with blue steel doors and a banner that tells you the place has a good, clean atmosphere.  Yet, as soon as you walk in, you realize you are somewhere special, like an enchanted garden.  Lots of greenery, bamboo like plants, umbrellas and a rich almost tropical feel.  It is as if you could sit there all day, and you can because once you walk in, you are treated like family.  There’s even a playground if you bring the kids. The menu is simple and hangs from the ceiling.  Tlayudas.  Pick your topping.  Beef, pork, ribs, skirt steak or eggs from the grill.  Add your drink, soda or beer, and you’re all set. Once we ordered, it took about 15 minutes for our food to arrive. And here’s what you get.  A gigantic fired roasted quesadilla like creation stuffed with cheese, black beans and finished with your desired topping.  I had the eggs, which came perfectly fried hard.  Now, I’ve had lots of tlayudas around Oaxaca, but this one was different, because the tortilla was cooked to perfection. When I picked it up, there was no sag at all.  This wonderful creation was crispy through and through, the result of just the right amount of time over the coals.  The beans were not over the top and there was just the right amount of that great Oaxaca string like cheese, quesillo. Once I added avocado, chepiche, a Oaxacan herb, and a some roasted chile de aqua, it was off the charts wonderful. Now, I’ve got to tell you, this place can be hard to find.  It’s in the Colonia San Jacinto but it is not along the row of the other locations that sell tlayudas.  Look for the San Jacinto signs that call you to this little slice of heaven in Oaxaca and prepare yourself to fall in love with this all star of Oaxacan cuisine, maybe for the first time, or all over again. Tlayudas San Jacinto Colonia San Jacinto Amilpas Calle Benito Juarez #11 Tlayuda and a soda... $6.00 con una cerveza… $8.00

Dinner with Dave... at Casa Oaxaca

Last night, after a long week of ministry, I had the pleasure of taking my wife to one of the best and most acclaimed restaurants in Oaxaca City... Casa Oaxaca. Chef Alejandro Ruiz has definitely created a magical place to sit, relax, and enjoy the full impact of the rich flavors that make up Oaxacan gastronomy. Situated in view of the historic Cathedral of Santo Domingo, we were seated on the rooftop terraza, perfect to watch the sunset and the sky change colors before us. As the captain seated us, he took our initial drink orders and soon returned to make our salsa for the evening right at the table.  Carefully hand grinding guajillo chiles, garlic and onions in a molcajete, our salsa was made complete when roasted green tomatoes were added.  He then invited us to try our fresh made salsa on a blue corn roasted tortilla sprinkled with asiento [seen above with both chile and herb salt].  It was wonderful, made even more so when paired with a margarita or some Real Minerva Madre Cuishe mezcal.    Soon our salads and appetizers arrived and they were visually stunning.  Chef Alejandro says that a chef is like a painter seeking a balance between colors.  He certainly succeeded here. I had the shrimp stuffed avocado role while my wife had the tropical salad.  Both were wonderful.   The roll, seemingly floating on a sea of cilantro dressing was carefully sliced and stuffed with baby shrimp and cheese and then topped with perfectly cooked chicharrón, or pork skin bits.    The tropical salad which was adorned with passion fruit, mango, avocado, slivered almonds and goat cheese alongside a wonderful jamaica dressing.  If your grandmother ever told you to avoid lettuce when traveling in Mexico, forget it!  Next time you are in Oaxaca, you’ve got to try this salad. Next up were our entrees, vanilla scented shrimp and a traditional tlayuda topped with rib eye steak. The tlayuda was covered with that wonderful Oaxacan cheese, quesillo, and the steak was perfectly done, just as I had ordered.  But I will warn you, unless you are extremely hungry, plan on sharing this one.  Perhaps a slightly smaller tlayuda would make this seem a little less daunting. The shrimp platter was unbelievable.  Who thinks of pairing shrimp, vanilla and an apple puree together?  Only someone daring enough to stretch your ideas about food.  Grilled to perfection, the shrimp, when touched with the puree was simply out of the world. Finally it was time for dessert and we were presented with an extensive dessert menu complete with paired dessert wines.  At the waiters suggestion, I had the flan of the day, a wonderful coconut infused version topped with a dollop of ice cream and a rose petal.  My wife had chocolate rolls, one stuffed with a chocolate ganache and the other a guanabana cream... both were light and wonderful. Served with coffee and Oaxacan chocolate covered espresso beans, the dessert was a wonderful end to a fantastic meal made even better by the sounds of latin jazz wafting up from the courtyard below. If you decide to go, you can walk from almost any place in the city.   Located on Avenida Constitución, between Reforma and 5 de Mayo, make sure you get reservations on the weekend as this award winning restaurant fills up quick. As for cost, dinner for two, including appetizers, drinks, a great view, incredible service and tip will run about $100.00US.  Well worth it in the wonderful city of Oaxaca, or as we say in Spanish, "Vale la pena!"